要牛肉还是面包？食品公司挑战减肥宗师

Beef Vs. Bagels: Food Firms Take on Dr. Atkins (2003)

It has been months since Tina Moore last bit into a bagel or a slice of toast.

"Protein is good. Carbs are bad," says 41-year-old Moore, who altered her diet five years ago in a bid to lose weight.

Moore is one of an estimated 15 million-plus Americans seen as devoted followers of dieting guru Dr. Robert Atkins, who recommends eating a diet high in protein for those who want to lose weight and keep it off.

The hamburger patty is good, the hamburger bun bad, according to the teachings of Atkins, who has turned his philosophies into a dieting revolution, starting with his first book, "Dr. Atkins Diet Revolution," in 1972.

Atkins' books -- his latest, "Atkins for Life," was published this year -- routinely top best-seller lists. Atkins companies have racked up millions of dollars in sales of specialty low-carb food products and carb-counting scales.

But the popularity of Atkins' eating advice, now appealing to another generation, is fraying the nerves of some food companies who rely on the consumer appetite for carbohydrate-laden foods such as pastas and pizzas, cakes, cookies and cereals, to add heft to their own bottom lines.

"Our industry has to do something, and soon. It is starting to become a mainstream belief that carbohydrates are bad," said Judi Adams, director of the Wheat Foods Council, a consortium of industry players that includes ConAgra, General Mills and Kellogg Co.

Part of the consortium's push will be in Washington, where federal health officials are starting talks on revisions to the nation's 11-year-old Food Guide Pyramid.

Currently, the pyramid puts bread, cereals, rice and pasta as the foundation for healthy eating.

The strategy is a direct attack on Atkins: Americans who follow the Atkins diet increase their risk of health problems that include cardiovascular disease, high cholesterol, kidney damage and some cancers, the Wheat Foods Council says.

Adding insult to injury, it claims that Atkins followers can also suffer headaches, constipation and bad breath.

According to Atkins, he is not looking to go to war with the food companies, and even Atkins die-hards allow for an occasional doughnut or cookie.

"We teach people how to respect it and, on rare occasions, have it in moderation," he said. "We know people can't stay away from it forever."

蒂娜·莫尔已经好几个月没有吃过一口面包圈、尝过一片烤吐司了。

41岁的莫尔5年前为了减肥改变了自己的饮食习惯。在她看来："蛋白质有利于健康，但碳水化合物却不那么健康。"

莫尔是营养大师罗伯特·阿特金斯的1500多万美国忠实追随者之一。阿特金斯提出高蛋白的饮食结构有助于减肥和保持体型。

他认为，汉堡包里的肉饼是好东西，但面包圈不可取。1972年，他出版了第一本书--《阿特金斯医生的减肥革命》，使他的理论上变成一场饮食革命。

阿特金斯今年出版的新书《阿特金斯指导你的生活》照例名列畅销书排行榜之首。他的公司已经靠销售特制低碳水化合物食品和碳水化合物磅秤赚了数百万美元。

然而，这普遍流行且正感染着下一代人的阿特金斯饮食理念让另外一些食品公司大伤脑筋。这些食品公司以销售富含碳水化合物的食物为主，如意大利面、比萨饼、饼干和谷类食品等，顾客对这些食品的喜好将决定他们能否营利。

面粉食品委员会负责人朱迪·亚当斯说："我们的行业一定要尽快采取措施。碳水化合物不健康正在逐渐成为一种主流意识。"康格拉、通用磨坊和凯洛格公司都是这个行业联盟的成员。

他们正努力的目标一部分将在华盛顿，因为在那里，联邦健康部门的官员正要开始修订已有11年历史的国家食物指南金字塔。

目前，在食物金字塔中，面包、谷类、大米和面食是健康饮食的基础部分。

这些食品公司的策略就是直接攻击阿特金斯的理论。食品联盟宣称：阿特金斯的追随者们患心血管疾病、高胆固醇、肾坏死及一些癌症的几率比常人要高。

更糟的是，据说阿特金斯的追随者们还容易头痛、便秘和口臭。

而在阿特金斯看来，他并不想与这些食品公司开战。他说即使是自己的忠实拥戴者们也可以考虑偶尔来点油炸圈或甜面包。

他说："我们教人们如何重视碳水化合物，并在个别情况下适当摄入碳水化合物。我们知道人们不可能永远拒绝这些食物。"

Add insult to injury：雪上加霜