法国总统马克龙为何从不松领带？

That tie. He just won’t take it off, even when picking his way in sweltering heat through the rubble left by Hurricane Irma on the French Caribbean island of St. Martin.
那领带，他是不会摘掉的。就算在酷热的天气中视察受飓风艾尔玛袭击的加勒比海圣马丁岛上灾情时也是一样。

President Emmanuel Macron has shaken French politics to its core but dares not breach the dress code for a French chief of state. The tie, preferably dark, is de rigueur.
法国总统马克龙颠覆了法国的政治传统，却不敢违背法国国家元首的着装规则。领带，最好为深色，是社交礼仪中的必备之物。

King Willem-Alexander of the Netherlands also flew to St. Martin to assess damage. He wore a khaki-colored shirt, sleeves rolled to the elbows — and no necktie.
荷兰国王威廉-亚历山大也到访圣马丁视察灾情。他身着卡其色衬衣，袖子挽至手肘，没有打领带。

“He’s a real king. He doesn’t need to post signs to show his stature,” said Jamil Dakhlia, a Sorbonne University sociologist specializing in political communications.
巴黎索邦大学政治传播社会学专家贾米勒•达赫利亚说：“威廉-亚历山大是真正的国王，不需要在形象上体现自己的身份。”

The French Revolution ended the country’s monarchy in 1789. The French presidency remains powerful but there is “a need to show with symbols one’s legitimacy. So, you must keep the tie on,” Dakhlia explained.
1789年法国大革命结束了法国的君主政体。法国总统一直大权在握，但是，达赫利亚解释说，“有必要通过一些象征彰显正统性，所以必须打领带”。

The Dutch king also is not a 39-year-old former investment banker looking to upset the political system with his upstart centrist party and planning to undo France’s nearly sacrosanct labor laws — all while sliding in popularity.
今年39岁的马克龙，曾在投行工作。尽管上任后民意支持率不断下滑，但马克龙仍试图改革现有政治体制，带领异军突起的中间派政党，改革法国几乎神圣不可侵犯的劳动法。这些，都不是荷兰国王面临的问题。

Conscious of his baggage, Macron donned a tie while campaigning and has kept it on ever since, even during events in which sartorial elegance might be understandably cast aside.
马克龙清楚自己的责任所在，从竞选时就一直打着领带，甚至是在大家都可以理解不用打领带的场合也是如此。

There he was in April, before his May election, in a coat and tie trying to talk down screaming angry factory workers outside their Whirlpool plant.
今年4月，总统大选前一个月，马克龙在惠而浦工厂外，穿着西装打着领带，试图说服群情激奋的愤怒工人们。

Two months later, as president, he was playing tennis — sans vest but with a tie — from a wheelchair alongside disabled athletes to promote Paris’ bid to host the 2024 Olympics. The French capital went on to win the opportunity.
两个月后，已当选总统的他为了推动巴黎申办2024年奥运会，坐上轮椅同残疾运动员一起打网球，没穿运动背心但却打着领带。巴黎之后赢得了这次举办权。

On Monday, Macron, doubtless wearing a thin dark tie, attended his first UN General Assembly in New York. There he also met with President Donald Trump, who is known to have a penchant for long neckties, often red or blue.
马克龙于18日在美国纽约首次出席联合国大会，毫无疑问打着细窄的黑色领带。他还会见了美国总统特朗普，众所周知特朗普酷爱红色或蓝色的长领带。

In St. Martin for two days, the French president trudged through debris on the devastated island wearing a dark tie over a white shirt, the sleeves rolled up in the smothering heat and humidity but mysteriously always crisp-looking.
在圣马丁视察的两天里，马克龙身穿白色衬衣打着黑色领带在被飓风袭击的岛屿断壁残垣中跋涉，袖子挽起，与湿热难耐的画风有些格格不入。

“What surprised me the most was that he took off his suit jacket,” said Dakhlia.
达赫利亚说：“他竟然脱掉了西服外套。这是最让我意外的”。

“For a long time … (Macron) was accused of not having legitimacy, of being too young, with no real political capital,” Dakhlia noted, saying Macron would have removed his tie at his peril. “If he had done it … it would have been noted as a way to try to be close to the people, as insincere stagecraft.”
达赫利亚说：“马克龙作为总统的资质一直饱受质疑，人们觉得他太年轻，缺乏真正的政治资本。”他说，如果马克龙松开领带，那无疑是在冒险。“如果他松开领带，就会被视为想和民众亲近，是虚假的作秀。”

The Western neck tie is widely considered to have its origins with 17th-century Croatian mercenaries, wearing colorful neck bands, during the Thirty Years War between European powers. The neck band evolved and spread.
人们通常认为，西式领带源于17世纪克罗地亚雇佣兵衣领上各种色彩的围颈带，当时正值欧洲各大国的三十年战争期间。随后围颈带发展为领带，并流行起来。

Today, the wardrobe of French leaders, tie included, is scrutinized by journalists deciphering the strengths and weaknesses of their chiefs of state. Macron’s ties have grown darker and thinner as president and the knots he used to use in his banking days have changed.
如今，记者们紧盯法国总统的领带等服饰，以此解读总统的优点和弱点。如今，马克龙的领带颜色更深、样式更窄，领结也与在投行从业时经常佩戴的不同。

Macron may have taken a clue from his unpopular predecessor, Francois Hollande, who had endless bad tie days.
上任总统弗朗索瓦•奥朗德因领带而被吐槽的经历或许能给马克龙带来一些启发。

Hollande’s cravat was always crooked and he became the butt of jokes. A website was even started, francois-tacravate.fr, which graded the appearance of Hollande’s ties on each public outing.
在法国媒体眼里，奥朗德的领带总没有戴正，因此遭人嘲笑。法国甚至有一家网站专门给他每次亮相时戴的领带打分。

But even as a rookie president, Hollande knew the French dress code. He was the only world leader at a 2012 G-8 summit at Camp David, just after his election, to show up wearing a necktie.
但即使是刚上任时，奥朗德也深知法国的着装规范。2012年八国集团峰会在美国戴维营召开，奥朗德是唯一一位佩戴领带出席的领导人，当时他刚刚上任。

“Francois, we said you could take off the tie,” the host, then-President Barack Obama, joked.
作为东道主，时任美国总统奥巴马开玩笑说，“弗朗索瓦，我们觉得你可以把领带解开”。

Hollande refused, saying that it’s “for my press!”
奥朗德拒绝了，说这是“为媒体打的”。

据媒体报道，“为了你的记者会，你必须看起来比较好。”奥巴马继续说。

随后，与会领导人便一同走向一个小木屋吃工作餐。根据美国白宫晚些时候公布的一张餐会照片，奥朗德吃饭时坐在奥巴马的旁边，且已经摘下了他的领带。