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Surveys indicate that a third of Britons regularly eat on their own. OpenTable, an online restaurant booking app, found that solo dining in New York increased by 80% between 2014 and 2018. And in Japan, the world capital of solo dining, a trend for "low interaction dining" has taken off. Restaurants are opening which facilitate the ultimate solo dining experience: passing bowls of noodles through black curtains into individual booths. Is this a worrying trend? We think so. Research is revealing the negative impacts of eating alone, which has been found to be linked to a variety of mental and physical health conditions, from depression and diabetes to high blood pressure. So it's cheering that hundreds of food sharing initiatives have sprung up around the world which aim to improve food security and sustainability while combating loneliness. There's London's Casserole Club, for example, whose volunteers share extra portions of home-cooked food with people in their area who aren't always able to cook for themselves. Or South Africa's Food Jams, social gatherings in which participants are paired up, preferably with strangers, and given a portion of the meal to prepare. Such initiatives offer lessons of all kinds to those thinking about how our food systems need to change. This is why we have been researching them, in our several ways, for the last few years. So why has eating together declined? There are a variety of reasons. Authors such as Michael Pollan argue that it is due to the general undervaluing of home-based labor, including cooking. The widening of the workforce, which brought many women out of the kitchen and into the workplace during the 20th century, also contributed. Meanwhile, the growth in insecure and inconsistent working patterns among a growing proportion of the population also discourage meals eaten communally. And an increasing number of people live alone, which certainly does not help. |